Hakkasan

Pan-Asian
Tottenham Court Road

Sunday lunch to most people means a traditional meat-and-two-veg affair with limited options. Chicken. Beef. Pork. Lamb. Repeat. Don't get us wrong, we love a roast dinners as much (if not more) than the next man, but the limited options mean it is sometimes not the most innovative or exciting meal of the week.

It looks like we're not the only people thinking this, as Hakkasan has now launched Dim Sum Sunday; a Sunday session revolving around the delicious and delicate steamed dumplings. The perfect Sunday lunchtime meal, not too heavy, but substantial enough to soak up the after effects of last night's cocktails.

Hakkasan has never been renowned for being affordable, relying on a 'reassuringly expensive' strategy. However, if one wanted to experience the Hakkasan menu without breaking the bank, the dim sum menu offers the opportunity to sample a range of dishes at a more affordable price.

We escaped the rainy streets one Sunday afternoon in its venue beneath Hanway Place (Tottenham Court Road). As you may expect, the decor inside the venue is a perfect example of tasteful opulence and subtle luxury. Many restaurants have tried to emulate what Hakkasan has captured but often fail to achieve the luxury look, instead appearing pretentious and like a poor imitation. Hakkasan, however, is the real McCoy.

We started our meal with shredded crispy duck salad, a melt-in-the-mouth dish that still makes our mouths water as we write this a few days later. Moist, flavourful and plentiful. It would have been the highlight of any other meal, but the best was still to come here. We also had a dish of sea bass baked in honey and miso; a delicious, decadent and indulgent creation that was heaven on the tongue.

The highpoint for us was the dim sum course itself. Customers can choose either steamed dumplings, or a range of fried and baked dim sum, but if your party is big enough we definitely recommend having a portion of each and tasting both types. The Chinese chive dumpling with prawn and crabmeat and grilled Chilean sea bass were our favourites from the steamed selection, while the venison puffs and smoked duck and pumpkin puff (perfectly shaped to look like a mini pumpkin) were hour most preferred from the fried and baked selection.

Altogether, the dim sum menu costs £58 per person, which in our opinion would be good value for the food alone, but the menu also includes a cocktail to start, a half bottle of Perrier-Jouët Blason Brut Rosé and a digestif cocktail to conclude. It is perhaps a 'special occasion' menu with £58 still being a lot to spend on lunch, but does represent a considerable saving compared to the á la carte menu. It's also fantastic value when the quality of the food is considered. Save up. Sell something on eBay. Rob a bank. Just do whatever it takes to make sure you experience this Hakkasan at least once.

8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HD

Dim Sum set menu: £58
Food: 5/5
Service: 5/5
Value: 5/5

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